ECUADORADO

Caras del Cabo

2010-07-27T18:19:00.032-04:00

Here are a few shots of the faces that make up the population of San Francisco del Cabo.

Follow the link to all my photos to view the entire series.

Aqui van unas fotos de las caras que conforman la poblacion de San Francisco del Cabo.

Sigan a los enlaces para ver todo el serie.

San Francisco del Cabo

2010-05-10T15:30:00.004-04:00

Just a few recent shots around town.

This is Gady. Gady cuts rug.

Puertas del Cabo

2010-05-10T14:52:00.012-04:00

Below are some sample shots from an album made up of characteristic and colorful doors around town.

Link to full album.

Pirates Launch Consistent Attacks off Ecuadorian Coast

2010-05-03T13:37:00.015-04:00

One of the principle risks involved in an artisanal fisherman´s life in Ecuador has little to do with the actual fishing practices that he has spent decades repeating day in and day out. It has nothing to do with the rough seas that arrive with the South winds beginning in April, nor the 8 meter wooden/fiberglass boat that takes him to sea each evening to bob in the ocean for at least 12 hours, nor its´ seemingly undersized 75 hp hand-steered motor. It is not even related to pulling hundreds of meters of nylon long-lines for hours on end each night against the current, molding his hands over time into implements that favor bound sausages more than a man´s hands. The most fearsome danger in a small scale fisherman´s life in Ecuador is piracy.

In the last 8 months, in the two fishing villages NAZCA is primarily involved with in Esmeraldas, pirates have robbed over 10 motors and killed 4 fishermen at sea. The piracy is directed towards the theft of the motors which each cost just over $6,000 new. When fishermen resist the attack that takes place in the middle of the night several miles offshore, that is when deaths occur. Pirates carry guns and often have inside information from within fishing fleets about who is fishing where, with whom, and whether or not they are armed. These thefts and robberies are statistics from two small fishing villages that are subject to the same risks as villages and cities that dot the entire Ecuadorian coast. A band of pirates that can steal numerous motors a month can gather an income far superior to anything available to someone of their capacity through legitimate methods. They just have to be ok with shooting and beating other fishermen who engage in the same line of work they used to do, and were likely raised to do within a community of fishermen. Fisherman go offshore in the evenings to set lines at night and return in the morning with 3 men in a boat and 1 75 hp engine. Pirates go offshore in the evenings to look for fishermen, often colliding with them, armed with pistols and rifles, with 5-10 men in a boat and 2 75 hp motors on the same wooden/fiberglass boats. Piracy attacks have also occured on transient sailing vessels and commerical ships in Ecuador. Fishermen are at the greatest risk when fishing closer to shore for Corvina, the cash crop for several of these communities. Attacks are greatly reduced when fishermen begin fishing further offshore for marlin and other fish further offshore.

The armed forces in this area of Ecuador in recent years have been more concerned with drug traffic, but fishing communities are crying out for increased attention and resources to be dedicated to this severe problem. When 3 fishermen were killed from San Francisco del Cabo several months ago, authorities found and arrested one of the pirates. He was taken to Muisne, a larger city nearby, where authorities were carrying him through the town to be jailed. A mob formed, took the man from the marines, soaked him in gasoline, and lit him on fire. That night the fisherman´s hometown through a party and celebrated the vigilante justice. NAZCA has attained grants to complete a radio communication system in the reserve to create communication between fishermen while at sea and their home ports. There currently exists zero. However, we will soon be constructing a tower and installing two base radios and distributing hand held radios to the fleet. They are also being trained in operating hand held gps. There is a complex equation full of variables and conditions that results in such a problem as piracy including things such as income, lack of government resources, law enforcement, apathy, and just bad people. However, it is our hope that increased communication and contact with land while at sea can begin to serve as an aid in the issue. A real comprehensive solution and erradication lies much deeper.

Below are a few photos from Cabo last week, when pirates chased one of the fishing vessels for several miles forcing it to retreat back to port. The town waited overnight for news as to whether or not the pirates had found the rest of the fleet. Thankfully, no one was harmed nor robbed.

Two relevant links: (Both in Spanish)
Reportaje desde Subscretaria de Recursos Pesqueros

Desde El Universo

Cuenca - Canyoning and Climbing

2010-03-29T12:51:00.014-04:00

This weekend, some friends and I took a trip to Cuenca to do some canyoning and rock climbing. Unfortunately, there are few pictures of the canyoning because my camera was in a dry bag on my back most of the day. On the drive home, we had great and very rare views of several of the volcanos in Ecuador: Chimborazo, Ilinizas, and Cotopaxo. Given their height, and Ecuador´s relatively small square acerage, these volcanos are viewable on very clear days from nearly any corner of the country, including cities on the coast, hours away.

Este fin de semana, yo fui con unos amigos a Cuenca para hacer canyoning and para escalar. Lastimosamente, son pocas las fotos del canyoning porque la camera estaba en una bolsa seca por la mayoria del dia. Regresando a Quito, tuvimos unos paisajes muy buenos y muy raros de unos de los volcanes del Ecuador: Chimborazo, Ilinizas, y Cotopaxi. Por sus alturas, y el relativamente pequeno tamano de Ecuador, se puede ver los volcanes en un dia muy claro de casi todo el pais, incluyendo las ciudades en la costa que quedan lejos.

gotta eat right.

hay que alimentarse bien.

obligatory road trip rear view mirror shot.
foto obligatoria del viaje del espejo

Chimborazo.

Project PESQAR

2010-03-23T17:54:00.002-04:00

It has been several weeks since I became involved with NAZCA and Project PESQAR and my role within the project has begun to define itself. We knew I would be dedicated to the economic questions at hand, but didnt know which would be the first steps. In order for NAZCA and myself to become more familiar with the business of fish in this region of Ecuador, we decided my first efforts would be directed towards a general investigation and examination of the industry in this part of Ecuador and the associated value chain. Thus, Ive spent the last couple of weeks trying to engage local fishermen, traders, market participants in Quito, restaurant managers, and seafood purveyors in order to educate myself on the structure of the chain. This is important to NAZCA because if we want to see the fishing in this reserve become sustainable, this chain will invariably have to undergo some changes. The most lofty and ultimate of our goals is to eventually have the products from this reserve packaged and marketed as a sustainable and artisinal product, identified seperately and likely sold at higher prices than conventional seafood because of increased quality. This is a very similiar process to what has been done with organic, socially responsible coffees and chocolates. In this instance, however, the finca workers are fishermen and the crop being harvested is the fish they take out of the sea. It will not be NAZCA, of course, who executes such a business plan (NAZCA is a marine research group only); however, it will be NAZCA who lays the groundwork for the infrastructural changes and enhanced fishing practices. They will also be responsible for the scientific and technical research associated with claiming an area as protected, which will be a very valuable component for anyone who does wish to purchase fish from the reserve as described above. There is already interest on behalf of several seafood companies who are interested in acheiving such a socially and environmentally responsable business feat. However, there is much to be done in the legitimization of the reserve and the practices within before it makes sense for any one to attempt such an entry. To provide a bit of a summary about this value chain as its understood today: Fishermen return from 1 to 2 days at sea in a 20+ ft plus boat often photographed by the author of Ecuadorado, and sell their catch on the beach to a local trader. In the reserve Corvina, Dorado, Pargo (snapper), Bonito, Picudo (marlin), and langosta (lobster) are some of the most important products. The trader then takes the fish either to the City Port of Esmeraldas, or sells it to someone in a nearby town who will take it directly to Quito. The fish sold to Esmeraldas is determined to be exported or consumed nationally and then sold once again accordingly. Once the fish arrives in Quito or a different destination it is then sold to a market or a distributor who will sell it to restaurants, hotels, and grocery stores. It is easy to note that intermediate steps that add no value to the chain are in abundance and in need of being terminated from this process. For example, in this process the price of Dorado and Corvina can be as much as 2 dollars/lb. and 3 dollars/lb. higher in Quito respectively. Each of these steps does not raise the price on its journey to Quito, rather they subtract money from the initial end of the chain. The price in Quito is more dependent on what people are willing to pay and the supply, not how much it cost to get there. So, the more people involved, the less money on the beach. Below are some shots from around the communities in the reserve.

Hace unas semanas que empeze mi trabajo con NAZCA y Proyecto PESQAR y mi enfoque personal ha empezado aclararse un poco. Sabiamos que yo iba trabajar en la parte de la economia y desarrollo para el proyecto, pero no sabiamos cuales iban a ser los primeros pasos. Para educarme yo mismo y a NAZCA tambien, decidimos que debo hacer una investigacion general de lo que es el negocio de pesca en esta zona y la cadena de valor que tiene. Entonces, por las ultimas semanas he estado hablando con pescadores, comerciantes, gente del mercado, exportadores, restaurantes, y supermercados para aprender como esta estructurado el camino del pescado del mar hasta el plato. Esto es importante para NAZCA porque si nosotros queremos ver la pesca de la reserva como sustentable y vendido asi, seguro tendra que cambiar la cadena de venderlo. Nuestro meta ultimo y alto es que los productos de la reserva sean promocionados y vendidos como un producto artesenal y sostenible, identificado aparte del pescado convencional y con un precio mas alto por un aumento en la calidad. Este proceso es muy parecido a como ha cambiado el cafe organico y los chocolates artesenales. Pero, los trabajadores de la finca son los pescadores, y la planta cosechada es el pescado que sacan del mar. Porsupuesto, no sera NAZCA el que hace el negocio que cumplira algo asi sino es solo un instituto de investigaciones marinos. Pero, si sera NAZCA el responsable para hacer las bases para cambiar la infraestructura y maneras de pescar. Y tambien sera NAZCA el que haga las investigaciones tecnicas que cualquier comprador de pescado de la reserva necesite para averiguar que el producto es lo que reclama ser. Ya hay unas empresas de pescados que tienen interes en la reserva, pero falta mucho para que tenga sentido una entrada asi. Para tener un ejemplo de la cadena: Los pescadores vuelven de 1 o 2 dias en el mar en una fibra de 8-9 metros y venden el pescado en la playa a un comerciante. Ese comerciante lo lleva a Esmeraldas u otro pueblo a otro comerciante. Si va a Esmeraldas deciden si es para exportar o consumo nacional. Despues el otro comerciante o los de Esmeraldas lo llevan a Quito para venderlo a un mercado, o distribuIdor que lo vende a un resaurante, hotel, o supermercado. No es tan dificil ver que hay unos pasos en la cadena que no añaden nada de valor deberian estar sacados, o fuera. Cada persona que esta involucradA esta sacando lo suyo. El precio en Quito es un resultado de la demanda alli y la cantidad que hay, nO importa cual sea el costo para llegar alli. Entonces, si hay mas gente involucrada, el precio no subira en el mercado, pero bajara en la playa. Mientras mas gente haya en la cadena, menos plata en la playa. Aqui abajo tengo unas fotos de las comunidades de a reserva.

The album drops summer 2k10.

Random Shots from Quito

2010-03-23T17:10:00.003-04:00

Quito is a city in which it is easy to become frustrated about the elements of American culture that we choose to export. Not only some of the worst pop music we have to offer gets shipped all over the world, so too do some of our less admirable contributions to the international culinary landscape. In Quito you can dine in: KFC, Taco Bell, McDonalds, Burger King, Arbys, Pizza Hut, Chili´s, Applebees, and even Tony Roma´s. (none of those were a joke). Despite being a bit exasperated by some peoples´ over-willingness to Americanize, a few nights ago I took a seat in an artsy restaurant/gallery in Quito where my pride would swell, and my hope would be regained in the machine that is American culture and arts...and the ability of its finer parts to reach all corners of the globe. Please take a look at this page from the salad menu and rejoice with me in that which is American Soul Music................

Quito es una ciudad donde es facil llegar al punto de estar frustrado de las partes de la cultura de EEUU que decidimos exportar. No solo las peores canciones de pop mandamos por todos lados, pero tambien mandamos nuestras contribuciones mas feas de la cultura culinaria internacional. Por ejemplo, en Quito uno se puede comer en: KFC, Taco Bell, McDonalds, Burger King, Arbys, Pizza Hut, Chili´s, Applebees, y tambien Tony Roma´s.(ninguna fue chiste) Pero, a pesar de estar exasperado, unas noches atras me sente en un restaurante/galeria de arte donde me puse orgulloso y donde me recupere me fe en la maquina que es la cultura de artes y musica Americana y su poder para llegar a cualquier rincon del mundo. Por favor, fijense en esta pagina de la carta de ensaladas y disfruten conmigo lo que es American Soul Music. Si no saben quien es Al Green, primero, lo siento muchisimo, segundo hay un link abajo para escuchar a uno de sus temasos.

Go´head on n´sang it....¨Im so tired of bein alone, so tired of on my own....¨
Listen.

Santa Clara Market - Quito

2010-03-23T16:56:00.002-04:00

Yall dont get tired of food being photographed from very close distances do you?

Uds no se cansan de fotos de comida de distancias chiquitas no cierto?

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Barcelona Sporting Club Practice

2010-03-23T16:30:00.002-04:00

Barcelona Sporting Club is one of the two most popular professional soccer teams in Ecuador. Recently, the team decided to move from its coastal home in Guayaquil to Quito to train in the altitude and attempt to refortify the team after recent struggles. Through a friend on the medical staff with the team, I went to observe one of the recent practices. Here are a few point and shoots from their practice at one of the Universities outside of Quito.

Barcelona Sporting Club es uno de los dos equipos mas populares del Ecuador. Recien, el equipo se mudo desde su hogar en la costa, Guayaquil, a Quito para entrenar en una altura mas alta y fortificar el equipo de nuevo despues de unas dificultades. Por una amiga en el equipo de medicos, fui a una practica de la semana pasada. Aqui hay unas fotos de su practica desde una de las Universidades afuera de Quito. Para los Argentinos, fijense si identifican Ricardo Noir, quien esta prestado ahora a Barcalona de Boca.

Mompiche

2010-03-23T12:21:00.002-04:00

On a clear day from the beach in San Francisco del Cabo (where im living for those who dont remember) one can see the point which forms on the South end of a town called Mompiche. Mompiche is just over 10 miles South of Cabo over water; and is home to a first-class left handed point break that forms the Southern barrier of the town. I have been fortunate enough to make it to Mompiche each week Ive been on the coast to scratch the surfing itch. The wave works best with swells from the North, and unfortunately that season is coming to an end. Large swells from the South can occasionally make it into Mompiche, and those will be the prevailing systems beginning in June. Im very pleased I made it down here before it goes flat. Mompiche has become relatively more popular in recent years, and news about this wave has spread. It was just a few years ago a handful of locals were surfing this exceptional wave alone. There is a concerted effort to develop Mompiche in an attractive and responsable way; however, there are still those who are trying to rush into the tranquil palm-laden coastal crossroads and throw up large unattractive cement structures seeking high volume tourism. There has been many a locale on the Ecuadorian coast that has gone the way of poorly planned, rushed, unsuccessful development that results in dirty, unattractive wastes of coastline. It will be a shame if Mompiche cannot avoid this path. Below are a few shots of the point, wave, and beach. I didnt have any shots of the wave working really well so I snagged one from the web to let you see what the wave looks like when its firing. The last couple of shots are of the unusually high lunar tide that has affected Mompiche this month, and allowed the Pacific Ocean to claim one of the Bamboo houses. As always, all of my photos are viewable in my Picasa galleries by following the link. You can surely expect more shots in the future from Mompiche.

En un dia claro, desde San Francisco del Cabo (donde vivo yo para uds que no se acuerdan) uno se puede ver la punta del lado Sur del pueblo Mompiche. Mompiche es un pueblo que queda un poco mas que 10 millas al Sur de Cabo sobre el agua, y tiene una ola de punta mano izquierda de primera clase. Por suerte, y diseno, he tenido la oportunidad de irme a Mompiche cada semana que he estado en la costa. La ola funciona mejor cuando las oleajes viene del Norte, y lastimosamente esa epoca se esta acabando. Empezando en Junio, las oleajes vienen del Sur; pero cuando sean grandes tambien, pueden entrar a Mompiche. Estoy muy contento que llegue al Ecuador antes que la ola se pone plana. Mompiche se ha puesto mas famoso por la olas en los anos recientes. Hace poco el grupo chico de locales que surfeaban esta ola maravillosa estaban solos. Hay una esfuerza buena de gente que esta compremitido a cuidar a Mompiche mientras esta desarrollando, y que quieren hacerlo responsable y lindo. Pero aun, hay gente que esta llegando rapido para construir edificios enormes de cemente para buscar turismo de alta volumen en este pueblito tranquilo lleno de palmas. Hay muchos lugares en la costa Ecuatoriana que se han ido por el lado del desarrollo feo, y mal planificado. Los resultados son lugares feos y sucios mal puesto en una costa bella. Sera una lastima grande si Mompiche no puede evitar ese camino. Aqui tengo unas fotos de la punta, ola, y plata. No tenia ninguna de la ola funcionando muy bien, entonces puse una del web para mostrales como se ve cuando esta buenasa. Tambien, hay unas del aguaje fuerte que ha afectado a Mompiche este mes, y que se llevo una casa de cana al mar. Como siempre, todas las fotos estan en mis paginas de Picasa, seguiendo al link. Sin dudas, se puede esperar mas fotos de este lugar en el futuro.

Project PESQAR

2010-02-21T07:43:00.001-05:00

Project PESQAR is a sustainable artisan fishery project taking place in the Northwestern Ecuadorian province of Esmeraldas. The project is a part of the NAZCA Institute for Marine Research, a Quito-based organization, engaged in a variety of marine stewardship and research programs. Currently, the principle focus of NAZCA is their management of the Galera-San Francisco Marine Reserve in Esmeraldas. The reserve extends Southward from the fishing village Galera to its Southernmost point San Francisco del Cabo. One of the primary projects in the reserve is Project PESQAR, NAZCA´s effort to sustainably enhance the artisan fishing taking place in the reserve. Generally speaking, the goals of the program are to both increase the sustainability and health of the fishery from a biological and ecological perspective, and to enhance the quality of life of those directly engaged with the marine resource, socio-economically. Due to the sustenance and economic livlihood of these communities being dependent on fishing, it is NAZCA´s goal to make the quality of life of these communities just as much a goal for their projects as is the conservation and biological research taking place in the reserve. I have been brought on by NAZCA to become a part of Project PESQAR and live in the Galera-San Francisco Reserve. My personal focus will be centered upon the socio-economic and development side of Project PESQAR. Project PESQAR has a variety of goals for the reserve ranging from more sustainable harvesting methods to increased efficiency in the commercial process. Each of these are designed with the intention of both preserving the marine resource in a sustainable manner, as well as fostering development , and elevating the socio-economic indicators within the communities living in the Reserve. There is no shortage of work to be done, and I will make an effort to keep this page as up to date as possible with the progress of Project PESQAR and NAZCA.

Proyecto PESQAR es un proyecto de Pesqueria Artesinal Sustentable en la Provincia del Noroeste de Ecuador, Esmeraldas. El proyecto es una parte del Instituto de Investigaciones Marinas NAZCA, una organizacion de Quito, que tiene ana variedad de proyectos y programas manejando temas del mar y la costa. Ahora, NAZCA esta enfocado en el manejo de la Reserva Marina Galera-San Francisco. La reserva se extende desde el pueblo Galera, por el Sur, hasta San Francisco del Cabo. Uno de los proyectos principales que NAZCA tiene en la Reserva es el Proyecto PESQAR, apoyando al desarrollo sostenible de la pesca artesinal que ya existe en el region. Por lo general, las metas del proyecto son: asegurar la sostenibilidad de la biologia y ecologia, y tambien, mejorar la calidad de las vidas de aquellos que estan involucrado directamente con este recurso marino. Por el echo que existen comunidades sobreviviendo por esta parte del mar Pacifico, PESQAR le da tanta importancia a las vidas de los pescadores y sus familias como a la conservacion y ecologia. Formo parte de NAZCA y Proyecto PESQAR y estare viviendo en la Reserva. Mi enfoque personal sera el lado de PESQAR metido en los temas socio-economicas y el desarrollo de las communidades. PESQAR tiene una variedad de metas para la zona, desde maneras de pescar mas responsables hasta aumentar la eficiencia del proceso comercial. Cada una de estas metas esta tan dedicado a la conservacion y salud de la Reserva como al mejoramiento de las vidas de los pescadores y sus comunidades. No falta trabajo para hacer, y hare lo posible para tener esta pagina al dia.

I hope she calls.
Espero que ella me llame.

Quito - 2.2010

2010-02-20T08:40:00.001-05:00

I had a few days to explore the capital city of Quito before heading out for the race and before beginning with Project PESQAR. The city is one of about 1,300,000 people that sits in the cradle of a Andean valley at 2,800 meters. The main attraction in Quito is it´s old colonial center. The city was one of UNESCO´s 2 original World Heritage sites. The center is filled with cathedrals, cobble stone streets, and colonial architecture. There is a great wealth of Catholic cathedrals due to the fact that those who came to Quito from Europe during the plague were healed from the disease. The European churches began to build as fast as they could, believing that a holy miracle was occuring in Quito relative to the plague. It was later discovered that Quito´s high altitude was the right medicine. Click to view Quito´s wiki page.

WE MISS YOU.

Huarasinchi Adventure Race

2010-02-16T12:59:00.001-05:00

My week in Quito prior to departing for the coast to begin work with Project PESQAR and the NAZCA Institute, happened to coincide with the Huairasinchi Adventure Race, the world's highest adventure race. Some of you may remember I used to have another Huaira in my life. Huaira, or Wayra, means wind in the South American indigenous language of Quechua. I have read about these types of races before, as a result of my own interests, but was quickly turned away by learning even the first details of the length and difficulty these things entail. This particular race is a 350 km 48+ hrs combination of trekking, mountain biking, orienteering, rapelling, kayaking, and self-loathing. The hostel I was posted up in was also housing a few of the teams, including Buff's the defending champion. Over a couple of hostel breakfasts with the Albert (Spn) and Benjamin (French), I decided finding a way to follow the race for the weekend would be an ideal use of the remainder of my free time in Quito. The only problem was, you cant just go spectate these races and then drive back home that night; if your'e going to watch, your'e pretty much in for the long haul. Conveniently, Albert and Benjamin had a friend whose production company was going to be filming the race and had some extra room in one of the SUVs.

La semana que estuve en Quito antes de irme para la costa y empezar mi trabajo con Proyecto PESQAR y el Instituo NAZCO, coincidio con la Carrera de Aventura Huairasinchi, la mas alta del mundo. Algunos de ustedes probablemente se acuerdan de otra Huaira que ya yo tenia en la vida. Huaira, o Wayra, es la palabra para el viento en Quechua. Ya habia leido algo de carreras asi, porque me interesaban, y rapidamente deje el tema despues de aprender solo el minimo de las distancias y locuras que son. Esta carrera consiste de 350 km y 48+ horas de kayak, navigation, trekking, bicicleta de montana, cuerdas, y odiarse mismo. En el hostal en cual me estaba quedando tambien habian unos de los competidores de la carrera; incluyendo el equipo de Buff's, los ganadores del ano pasado. Despuse de unos desayunos juntos con Albert (Esp) y Benjamin (Francia) decidi que seguir a la carrera seria el mejor uso del tiempo libre que me quedaba antes de perderme en la costa. Seguir a la carrera me dio una gran oportunidad de conocer cosas afuera de Quito y cosas que casi ningun viajero va a conocer. Pero, no es facil seguir a las carreras como fanatico, no se puede ir a ver unas horas y volver a la cama en casa...Si lo vas a seguir, lo seguis hasta que termine. Por suerte, Albert y Benjamin tenian una amiga de los anos antes que iba a cubrir la carrera por su productora, Deporvida, que hace producciones audio visuales de todos tipos de deportes. Es muy muy buena gente, y me dijo que tenian un poquito de espacio extra en una de las camionetas para un gringuito largo.